b r o o k l y n t w e e d
8.30.2006
  The Seamless Hybrid
I know you all are the last people I need to sing praises to about Elizabeth Zimmermann, but will that stop me? You know it won't.

Seamless Hybrid

Pattern: Seamless Hybrid by Elizabeth Zimmermann (not so much a pattern as a recipe)
Source: Knitting Without Tears
Materials: Rowan Yorkshire Tweed DK in 'Revel' (1o Balls); Rowanspun DK in 'Rush' (less than 1 ball) for hem facings.
Needles: US 6 Clover Bamboo Circulars (29" & 16"); US 6 Crystal Palace Bamboo DPN's
Cost: $49.99 (scored a bag of Yorkshire Tweed on Ebay) + Shipping

Start Date: 26 July 2006
Completion: 18 August 2006

Seamless Hybrid

I'll do my best to explain the construction on this one. The (pure) genius lies in the simplicity. Again, I realize I'm preaching to the choir here...

Anatomy: EZ offers up 4 recipes for seamless sweaters in "Kw/oT." With the exception of yoke construction, all 4 sweaters are done in the same way. You knit the body in the round (in my case, a straight tube with no shaping), followed by two sleeves (beginning at the cuff, increasing up to the desired circumference as you approach the armhole). These three pieces are knit seperately until you've reached a preferred length. This part of the sweater was sort of a snooze-fest, but I love me some stockinette in the round, so I enjoyed it. It also goes crazily fast.

When all three pieces are completed, you join each onto one 29"+ circular needle and work one long round to join them all together (having left of 8% body circumference for the underarm on each piece) - this is the longest round you will work. From this point, you choose a yoke treatment and get to the good stuff!

The Seamless Hybrid is a tasty mixture of a standard raglan and a saddle-shoulder pullover. Work the first portion of the yoke with standard raglan decreasing, although, because we're working in the round, we can decrease at a rate of every third row (rather than every second or fourth) which gives the IDEAL raglan slope, and starts securing that wonderful fit. After a certain number of stitches have been decreased, its time to saddle up. From here on out, you will be working just the sleeve stitches back and forth, making a saddle that slowly approaces the center neck, leaving the body stitche s live on the needle. How is it seamless? As you work the saddle, you knit the last stitch of each row TOGETHER WITH ONE LIVE STITCH OF THE BODY. You are seaming up the top of the piece as you build it.(Seriously, I'm excited just explaining it). When you reach the collar - you bind of half of the stitches of the saddle and continue working them across the back. This means the neck hole is merely the front half of the sleeve saddle, in the center of the sweater. When both saddles meet in the middle, you kitchener graft them together and BAM, your sweater is all seamed up. Pop a collar on that bad boy and you're ready-to-wear.

(I realize that this description may be convolluted and confusing (much like the pattern writing!) I had to read and re-read multiple times to envision it correctly. If your having trouble, just make one, it'll all make sense to you then)

Below I have included visuals of the yoke construction (Click on them to see them in greater detail):


Seamless Hybrid Raglan Saddle (Front) Seamless Hybrid Raglan Saddle (Back)
front of yoke :: back of yoke

Modifications/Personalization:
How do you make it your own? Well, first off - any sweater you make from such a general recipe will be indiviudalized based on your yarn choices: guage, drape, shaping, blah blah blah. Its the same old story. I chose to add a wide (about 2") turned hem at the sleeve and body cuffs. I liked how this added a little weight to the bottom half of the piece. It also gave me an opportunity to add a contrasting color on the hem facings.

Seamless Hybrid Hem Facings
contrasting hem facings

Recognize it? Thats a little leftover Rowanspun DK from this. I like the semi-off-the-wall color combo, and the union of tweeds. (Is there any better union?)

Some of you asked about how I did this, and its a suuuuper simple process: With contrasting yarn (Rowanspun) provisionally cast-on 90% the number of stitches you plan on having at the base of your sleeve. Knit these stitches to desired cuff length (2"). Knit one round with Main Yarn (Yorkshire Tweed), increasing evenly up to 100% of cuff circumference. Purl one round (this is your turning round). Now begin to knit normally with your Main Yarn. When you have knit the equal length with your Main Yarn that you had previously done with your Contrasting Yarn (2"), it is time to join them together: Fold the hem and begin your round, knitting two stitches together on every stitch (one contrasting yarn stitch, and one main yarn stitch). Keeping with the whole "seamless" theme, we are bypassing the insanely annoying step of sewing down hem facings (cringe). *NOTE: you are knitting together 10% more Main Yarn stitches than Contrast Yarn Stitches... you will need to calculate for this and skip a K2tog every once in a while (you'll only knit the Main Color by itself).

EZ suggested finishing with a hemmed collar as well - which was my original plan. However, when I did this it looked rotten. It really didn't fit. So I went with a 1x1 ribbed collar and a tubular (kitchener) bind off (i love how clean that one is). I like the finished product


Seamless Hybrid Collar

So... now that I've written a short thesis, I'll conclude. I hope this was in some way informative and not too confusing. My main goal here is to spread ideas and inspiratin about sweater construction. Thats what keeps me coming back to all this you know.

And for the record, this is my best fitting garment yet - I really like how it feels, and post blocking, my wool-too-scratchy worries were soothed, its definitely wearable! I've been sportin it around in this rainy Chicago weather for 3 days already

and its back to knitting.
 
Comments:

that wasn't confusing (to me) at all! i really need to get that book. it's been on my wishlist for a while.

also:
"You are seaming up the top of the piece as you build it.(Seriously, I'm excited just explaining it)."
i can't tell you how glad i am that there are super-nerds just like me out there! hehe...

Such a beautiful example of the EZ formula. I would like to congratulate you on your lovely saddle shoulder. Would also like to ask how your saddle is so smooth? I tried one of these last winter with Rowanspun Aran and my saddle came out all wonky. Do you have any tips for that process? Perhaps I was not doing the Hybrid but the "Brooks" saddle shoulder from "The Opinionated Knitter". That's it, I made a different sweater. I will try again with the Hybrid formula.

Gorgeous sweater!

Hi!
I loved your Seamless Hybrid Sweater.
Excusez-moi, je ne parle pas l'Anglais. Mais j'ai beaucoup aimé ton ouvrage; c'est vraiment très joli!

I love the sweater - I MUST get that book - but I really love how you did the hems, especially the contrast color. One question: Does starting with 10% less stiches solve the hem flipping up problem?

beatiful job! :)
Meg

I adore everything about your sweater! I've been lurking around that EZ pattern ever since my dog chewed up the library's copy. Fortunately, I had to buy the book. Best "forced" purchase ever.

It's the next sweater on my list. Bring on the cold weather.

You and your damn sweater; my cousin saw it and now won't stop pestering me for one. I'm trying to convince him to learn to knit and make one himself.

What a great sweater! It's perfect fitting, just like all your other pieces.

I think those saddle shoulders are particularily suited to men. I wouldn't put it on a woman's sweater. But there are plenty of designs for women, so it's really nice to get something good for the guys.

Your explanation of the shoulders made perfect sense. I followed it easily.

Absolutely smashing. Just Awesome. So. Tweedy......... It really is great, and so well done. Your photos also do it more than justice.

A very nice sweater but that yarn - gorgeous. well done

I find the garments you make so satisfying - the observation, the mouthwatering attention to detail, the eye for colour - I feel so satisfied that I feel as if I've done it all myself and now I can't quite understand why I don't have anything to show for it. Vicarious painstakingness.

What's happened to Raspy? It's one of my favourite patterns and I'm itching to see what you've done with it.

Hot diggity!!! That's one good-looking and well-fitting sweater! EZ would be proud!

That sweater is positively amazing! I am inspired to make one identically for my boyfriend--I knit him a sweater once ages ago (5 years?) and it never quite fit, so I recently took it out and have been waiting for the right look to come along. You definitely found it. Congrats!

yum !

aaaawesome! great construction, great colors, great photos! congrats

So wonderful! The hem facings are a great little detail. And the color looks great on you.

Wow, amazing work, yet again. You must have a closet full of perfectly-fitting, stylish sweaters by now. Thanks for all the details, too.

*Gasp in awe and runs off to Amazon.de to order EZ's Kw/oT*

Crikey, it's yet another winner. I love your knits, I can safely say, more than any other on the 'net. Well done. If I ever find the time, I want to do exactly this sweater for me. Yum.

Wow, Jared! Very stylish and definitely a great fit! I love the color, too! I wanted to put a contrasting hemline on my hourglass and I think now I'll rip back and use that provisional cast-on. You explained it perfectly!

looks awesome. i've always had a soft spot for saddle-shoulders.

wow,
You and Eunny should get married!!;-)

It's brilliant, and you explained it very well. Again, I love your colour choices.

I have some olive Malabrigo that has been waiting to become a sweater like this for my husband. Thanks for the inspiration and push to get it swatched up. I have to add, I adore the color you chose for your sweater. If my man was willing to let me dress him in that fabulous color, I think I'd drool all over him. Yum! ;)

What a stunning sweater! You pay such attention to detail. It makes my little perfectionist heart happy to see other knitters who get so painstaking with details. Very well done! Can't wait to see what you do next. :)

that is simply bad ass. Your explanation was great!

DUDE! That is SO cool, I can't wait to try that method. I agree with everyone above, NOT at all confusing. I love the contrasting facing thing, too. Plus the provisional cast on gives so many decorative options on a turned hem! The mind reels with possibilities! Thanks for sharing!

That jumper looks great, and I love the two colors knit together. You are a fantastic knitter, and I like the yoke too.

Brilliant! Glad to know that Rowanspun isn't as scratchy as I thought. I have plenty of eBay 10-packs in my stash and have been hesitant to use them for garments.

You are one bad-ass knitter. Glad you're diggin' Chicago, too, despite the recent monsoons.

Beautiful job. Looks great on you.

All praise EZ! That sweater rocks!

Beautiful! And thanks for sharing. I've got to try this.

mmmm .. another gorgeous sweater. I LOVE the hem facings and the seamlessness of it all.

As aforementioned, much praise.

I'd just like to say (if I may) that I do, as a guy who knits, find your site, and more importantly, your skills and projects impressive and somewhat inspiring. Sometimes this provides me that little kick needed to pick up the needles again.

It's so stylish. I was a little sceptical about EZ's formula producing stylish sweaters. I was rather afraid that the sweaters will look ugh. Now I'm a believer!

You are one crafty MF'er! Nice sweater!

Fab! Union of the Tweed should've been the name of that Duran Duran song.

Love it, love it, LOVE IT! Seriously...it is gorgeous in it's simplicity. Once again, you've knit a fabulous, inspiring sweater...which I will not forward the link to my bro...I am behind on knitting for him!

Thanks for such a great explanation. I had been looking at the KW/OT book and was feeling inspiration. Now after seeing your success and thesis, the inspiration has increased ten-fold. Now, if I can just finish making the yarn...

So cool! I love it--I gotta get that book.

Again, you give a new information to me as a new knitter. Thanks!

Amazing! I have the EZ book but would never have thought that sweater could look so good. Well done.

i have been ooing and ahhing over your projects for months..
but now i have an all out ~crush~
;^)

1. it's tweed
2. it's purple
3. it's saddle-shouldered
i don't need more. it's perfect.

ok, i am still jetlagged so coming up with anything exciting to say is going to be a stretch. so instead i am just going to say

DROOLLLLLLLL...........

you have got to be, hands down my favourite boy knitter!

Another perfect sweater and thanks for the construction thesis too :)

what a beautiful sweater. the color is wonderful and it looks like it's really comfortable - I need to get me one!

Lovely construction and thanks very much for all the details!

Wow. I really love the color combo you used in the contrasting hem - I think they go great! I really love the seamless idea - I have done a few sweaters this way, and they are my best fitting, most worn ones! EZ was such a goddess!

Wow... I am impressed with every knit object you display! This one is fantastic... I've been searching high and low for a sweater to knit for my boyfriend that he'd actually wear...and voila! He saw your Hybrid and is hooked! The tweed is doubly exciting... I heart tweed... and have recently become a Rowan-Hargreaves fanatic. Your website is pure knitting porn for this tweed-hearting girl. Will be knitting *one of everything* out of Vintage Knits this fall and winter.

Again, awesome sweater!

Ooo... gorgeous! Your knitting is perfect, and the colour combination is delicious!

Just throw this gush on the pile. Seriously awesome sweater, much appreciated explanation, great photos, I need one of these.

that is truly stunning, and your description is inspiring. i'm feeling like i need to cave and knit my husband a sweater. the color is perfect, too. we're thinking of moving to brooklyn so if you bump into some guy wearing your matching sweater, you'll know who it is.

since i've never knit for an adult man before, can you tell me how much ease you built in over your actual measurements? i love the perfect fit you got. I just wouldn't have the foggiest idea how much ease to build in.

As usual, fabulous job! Thanks for sharing your EZ experience!

I've wanted to make one of those ever since seeing them in her book (something about the saddle shoulders), now all the more after seeing yours. Very nicely done!

Very elegantly done! And such beautiful tweed, too. It does look extremely comfortable.

i love a man that looks good in purple! it's the new pink! (actually, there never should have been a pink+men in the first place, but i digress) your sweater looks fantastic!

wow, thanks for all of your construction insight. i don't own knitting w/o tears but it looks like i'm definitely going to have to now! it looks like the sweater fits you perfectly. wear it proudly!

That is freaking brilliant. And it looks fantastic on you, too. The finishing may have been minimal, but it's exceptionally neat and elegant (love the neckline!)

I've wanted that EZ book for the longest time. Now that I see what can be done with her guidance, I think I'm going to go ahead and invest in a copy.

Of course I am in love with the color choices. Bravo, man.

seriously gorgeous sweater - love the color!

It's fantastic, sir! I love the colors and the fit is wonderful.

What's the chest measurement? You're scaring me with the 10 balls used.

After seeing your photos on Flickr, I pulled out my copy of KWoT and revelled over the construction of the sweater as well. I can't wait to start one of my own now and am working on the yarn selection and everything. I'm in love with that color too.

I'm new to your blog. Fabulous sweater!! I love the hidden hem... must get me a copy of this book!

My god, I adore it. It really did turn out sooo fabulous. I love that hem trick (I used the same method on my hourglass) - such a great way of making a nice hem. I really need to try one of these EZ recipes.

okay, seriously, your sweaters are awesome. I think I have a crush on you! (blush) But alas, I am too old and married. It would be a total Demi/Aston thing of course.

Brilliant job, all joking aside.

;-)

That is so amazing! I immediately pulled out my own Knitting Without Tears and looked up the sweater... that's definitely on my to do list. I love all your knits and your blog...you have great taste.

i call them recipes too! my mama said this was because i am a cook. but it's wondrous to hear someone more skilled than me calling them that too.

Love the tweed, and the sweater is beautiful, beautiful, beautiful. Makes me want to drop everything and make one. i love the contrasting hems - great touch.

TOTALLY RAD!!! It fits you sooo well.

-drew

Fabulous. It's so simple but really beautifully made, and it fits you perfectly. I love your photographs - every one of them looks like it belongs in a knitting book.

Great looking sweater. Your description of the technique was wonderful -- I may have to try this one out.

Love the sweater as a whole, but my favorite part is the contrasting colored facings! Great touch!

That sweater is hawt! Especially the contrasting colors!

Stunning sweater. Beautifully finished.
I call them recipes too!

I know I'm late in the game here to sing your praises, but - it's fabulous! Kudos for always making absolutely gorgeous, classic pieces for all of us to drool over. And my compliments to your photographer!

I love it. Great color combo and beautiful finishing details. This is one that I could get my M to wear, which is saying something.

Beautiful sweater. It suits you perfectly, in fit and tweediness.

its beauty is in the flawless simplicity and fit of it all -- turned under hems, st st body, crew neck, uniterrupted saddle shoulders. great execution. EZ would be proud.

This is one of the most original yet classic knits I have seen in a long time. Thanks for the inspiration!!

I looooove it. Can we see a closer close-up of the saddle where it joins the front? I'm wondering what it would look like if the saddle were the contrast color. Also, how do you feel about the squareness of the neckline? I think it's flattering on you, but maybe not on me... do you think adding a short row at the ends of the back-and-forth saddle rows would help fill in the corners a bit? Or is there something else you might suggest?

oh jared it's gorgeous. and you wear it really well.

Wow. That's beautiful.

My Goodness I'm comment 84!!! This is a great sweater. I have been looking for the perfect sweater for my 30 year old son and I think I just found it. I love how you did the hem and the cuffs. I will copy your idea! Great job...you are an awesome artist.

Wow just look at all your commentors!

You did a fabulous job on the sweater - it is really gorgeous and that color is great.

I truly think your knitting is perfect!

You have a fabulous collection of knits. I truly love the pattern and fiber combinations. Since you are a tweed guy I was curious if you've tried Elsebeth Lavold's Silky Tweed? Wendy from Knit and Tonic http://knitandtonic.typepad.com/knitandtonic/2006/08/now_it_could_be.html says its one of her favorite yarns and its on sale at WEBS. I'm going to give it a go.

All your knits are beautiful! So perfect!
Regards from Buenos Aires :)

Wow, I love the sweater. It's so simple, but looks so functional and warm to boot. I really like the idea of knitting an entire sweater in the round, as I'm somewhat intimidated by the men's sweater patterns I've seen that involve so many different pieces. This seems like a great way to get started in the world of sweaters. Thanks for the inspiration!

Again, amazing work! Thanks for the explanation! As a beginner, every drop of information is welcome. This was really inspiring...

Your sweater turned out great! I love the saddle yoke and the contrasting hems. very tweedy :-)

I love this sweater. My boyfriend saw it and immediatly wanted one for himself. Plus the photos of your stuff are stunning.

Such a beautiful sweater - sometimes simple is better than fancy and complicated! I'm inspired - I'm going to knit a stockinette sweater - maybe even an EZ recipe. Thanks for your great blog!

That looks really nifty! I finally decided to ignore the boyfriend-sweater-curse thing and knit my SO a sweater, and I bet he'd like something simple and casual like that. Cool cuff facings, too!

Wow. I just found your blog via Splityarn, and I'm impressed by your style. Gorgeous photos, I need to poke around now see what else you've made...

I am using the same yarn in blue to make my first sweater vest - didn't know it was anyone's pattern, I was just guessing from the shape of a sweater that fits me well. I will have a fair bit of yarn left over and you're tempting me to add sleeves to it - the saddle shoulder is beautiful.

waou! ce pull est magnifique jusque dans les moindres détails... merci pour les explications

perfect!

gorgeous color choice. and I am digging the contrast color in the hem.
Wonderful.
Thanks for the inspiration

You learn something old every day! I'm going to have to take a fresh look at Knitting Without Tears. Inspiring work.

Wow wow wow wow wow!

I'm going to run out and by the book too!

Three cheers for EZ and for you doing such a find adaptation. My Mom gave me Knitting Without Tears, years and years ago. It changed how I knit, how I look at knitting and my whole idea of everything knitted. Good job on the sweater and I love the contrasting colors!

The contrasting hem are superb. I would try out the method in maybe one of my project.

I love your personal modifications, especially the contrasting hem facings.

The colors you chose are so uplifting. I love your sweater :D

The colours you chose are fabulous, as is the end result. Thanks for pointing me back in the direction of that book. It's been languishing on the shelf for a while now.

I'm an extremely late commenter but was linked to this via another blog. Thanks so much for the example, finally I have something I'm willing to make for my husband!

That sweater is awesome! Your description answered so many questions I had about the construction. I really can't wait to start mine. Cheers!

the book arrived in the mail today, and I read at Zimmermaniacs how some people were able to grasp the construction of her garments when there was a post somewhere to supplement her "pithy" instructions, so well done. I've alway found a few pics can aid to getting the head around those "huh, what?" situations.
Hmm. Were the colours described as "Eggplant" and "Mustard", by any chance? (I don't eat either as a rule, but they do go well together in your jumper/sweater).
Congrats.

Very late thank you for this post. I'd reached the saddle/shirt yoke and panic hit. I was so glad to find your post.

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Jared, PHENOMENAL work! I love the beautiful delicacy with which you knit. And, your photography? Forgetaboutit! I'm a new fan!

Thanks Jared. I am making my first K w/o Tears seamless sweater and doing the hem facing like you. It is even less steps than EZ describes. I saw a neat little detail in a Loro Piana sweater that I am going to try to rip off too. I will put a little cable in each side "seam", with my body decreases and increases flanking the seam. The original Loro Piana sweater had the little cable in the raglan "seam" and I thought it was such a charming detail that I'll give it a go in the side "seams" of the body. Very excited and am swatching the seam today! Thanks again for your great inspiration!
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